Installing the Chines
I decided to use one solid piece for my chines instead of laminating two pieces together to make the chines. I soaked them for two days in PVC pipe and then started bending from the stem working my way to the transom. They were much harder to bend then the sheer laminations and much more tension requiring lots of clamping force. The chines didn't fit quite as well as I would have liked in the pre-cut notches based on the boat plans. I ended up adjusting them a bit to fit the chines however the back side of frame#2 and the chine had quite a gap because the plans didn't take into account the angle that the chine would hit that frame. The gap on the aft side I ended up filling with thickened epoxy. I used the wood dust I had from sanding to thicken the epoxy. 





Once the chine was bent into place I needed to add a twist to the chine so I would have adequate surface area to fair for the plywood to attach to the chine and sheer. At first I tried a long clamp and set it up to keep the twist. However, I later decided a better technique was to clamp some boards to the chines and set the other ends on the sheers and that kept and adequate twist in the chine. Later when starting to fair I found I did in fact have to laminate a wedge of wood on the bottom part of the chine (top side in picture). This is the opposite problem most people have had when not adding enough twist in the chine. The twist I had in the chine seemed to be just right for between the chine and sheer so I don't think that I twisted them too much. Also where the chine sits in the transom cut out, the transom ended up sticking out past the chine. My cutout in the transom for the chine matched exactly to that of the plans and the size of my chine also matched exactly with what the instructions called for ( I verified this multiple times). I believe the chine needed to be slightly thicker than what the plans called for. If it were just a 1/4 inch thicker then I wouldn't of had to laminate any wood onto the chine for fairing and would have fit in the transom notch.



 I used a scrap piece of plywood to create a fixture as shown in the Glen L. book to determine how far to set back the chine on the stem. However I found a method on YouTube I preferred much more. Probably the only YouTube video I've found to be helpful in boat building so far. You basically make a cut on the stem where the center of your chine will be and once the saw blade is parallel with the chine and hits the center line on the stem then the chine is set back in the position it needs to be when you fair the stem. It worked really well for me. 






This picture shows how I used the stem to cut the proper angle on the chine to match the stem. Once I got it set back pretty close to where it needed to be I would just cut a saw blade width until the chine was set back in the proper location.




After securing the chine logs in place I noticed a small crack in the chine near frame#2 right where I have been using my clamps. It was very small probably less than an inch in length but it is imperative to not have any major imperfections in the chines. So I decided to chisel off the surface wood to investigate how deep this crack was and determine whether or not I needed to completely start over with this one.





The crack appeared to be very superficial. I think mostly from the clamp I had in that spot chipping the surface of the wood. So I decided to put some epoxy over that area and keep the chine and glue and screw everything in place.


Also I acquired a GoPro and thought I would take a shot at a time lapse video. Would like to time-lapse the fairing process but the GoPro has been a pain to use

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